I am not certain what stone it looks like (I am either thinking slate, granite or marble) but I think they look really good.
What you need:
Wood
Gift tissue (like the one you stuff in bags) - try not to use the shiny paper, it does not let the paint seep through as well - I used black
Seafoam sponge
Accent color paint (I used grey from a sample I got at Glidden Walmart section called Garden Urn #11266)
Paint brush or foam brush
Epoxy glaze coat (I used Famowood)
First step, cut the wood into whatever shape you want for your table or counter top. We just removed the existing tables and used as a diagram for the new wood. Our table was not strong enough to hold weight so we had to replace the wood. Second step (if you wanted to) was to route the edges with a trim router and sand everything smooth. If you have any imperfections or dents in the wood fill with wood putty and let dry and sand smooth.
Get your gift tissue and lay down over your wood to measure out, if the one piece does not cover, make sure you have at least 1/8"-1/4" of other paper to cover for a seamless seam, then wad up the paper to put creases into the paper.
Next step is to get the accent paint and paint the wood. I found that if you do a thin layer of paint to let it soak up into the wood then go back over with a thicker layer of paint real quick (so it won't dry before putting on paper) was the best way. I tried to do in sections and realized that it looked better if you could paint entire section the paper will cover. See picture below to see what happened when I did in sections.
If you have edges that will show, do the edges first with thin pieces of paper and let wrap around on top so the top paper will cover. When you need to add the next sheet of paper put a little bit of paint over the end edge to "glue" the paper together. Don't pull the paper too tight, you want the wrinkles in the paper, but don't make the wrinkles too big (you want the epoxy to be able to cover without having to do more than 3 layers of epoxy). Pat the paper into the paint, don't rub the paper too much or it will tear and you will see just the under paint. If you do tear it, you can make a patch with another piece of paper, just estimate about how big it is and tear a piece to match and put on top (don't trim until everything is fully dry). See the picture for reference of my patch job.
I used a heat gun to dry everything faster, but you can let dry on it's own. The paint will come up a bit through the paper's pores which is actually what you want. I used two types of paper with my samples and the shiny did not show as well, this is the differences (the shiny paper is the one behind the other).
After it dried I got a facial sponge and sponged my accent paint lightly over the top. You can do patterns or do random pats, whatever you feel looks good, or you can leave plain. Let fully dry and if you want to trim up use a sharp razor and try to trim up the edges.
Next find a VERY level place that will not have any bugs or dust and put first layer of epoxy on (make sure you follow the instructions given with the epoxy or it will not set up correct), use wax paper to line whatever it will be sitting on so it can be easily removed after it dries. I used a heat gun on low setting to quickly go over after I did the first layer to pop any bubbles in the epoxy. Let dry over night, then get razor and try to trim the paper that is sticking up at the edges of the paper (not the wrinkles in the paper but anywhere paper overlaps).
Do 2 more layers of epoxy and let dry overnight each layer. One more note - if you have more than one table or counter to do, mix epoxy in separate batches.
This is after 2 coats and already reflecting light... Still has some wrinkles that needs covered.
Then voila, you have your table. The most expensive part of this is the epoxy, but this is what makes it look awesome so do not replace with polyurethane because it will not make smooth or have the dimensional look.
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